Wednesday, March 05, 2008

Ode to Malawian Drivers II

Every week we drive down this crazy hill with hairpin bends and long grass and bicycles. Right near the top though, the road goes sharp left- but there are skid marks and a mangled safety rail where somebody evidently didn't make the turn.
I asked a local Malawian about it. He said 2 trucks went over about a month ago- both loaded with gravel, the second truck without breaks. 4 people died. Why am I telling you this now? cos today I discovered that my colleague Ben had photos- and they are such a sobering reinforcement of everything Ive been whinging about... that they deserve to be posted as a sequel. I promised Ben I would reference him and share a cut of the royalties, so- thanks for the pics Ben- the cheque's in the mail.
these pictures may disturb some viewers.

Tuesday, March 04, 2008

Ode to Malawian Drivers

Another day in the village...another exhausted me. more driving. more intense listening. more understanding. more attempts to be understood in an obscure African language... followed by more grammar (woops- forgot to cancel my 4pm language lesson!).

Nothing new, just slow progress on the old. So, I thought I would dedicate this post to all the wonderful Malawian drivers out there who load their vehicles to capacity with maize, strap a bicycle or 2 on top with 5 to 65 people around the edges and then proceed to crawl along the road at 40 km/hr because:

a) the engine's not big enough to carry the load;

b) their suspension/dif/ axel are completely stuffed (see a);

c) they don't have any breaks and they know it;

d) their steering is stuffed and anything over 40km will send them careering out of control;

e) all of the above.

And who, in the mean time motion for you to pass on a blind corner, drive in the middle of the road- or stop (in the middle of the road) to kindly pick up more passengers who stand scattered across the road while their produce is loaded on top. these guys are awesome- they are the lifeblood of this country- ok thats a bit excessive- but think of how many bicycle trips they are saving- and how many car trips- greenhouse gas emission?! they are saving by cramming 6 loads onto 1?!

unfortunately the best ones don't get photographed cos Im gripping the wheel trying to keep everyone alive- but here is a taste of what I came across today. I hope you enjoy the scenery too!


And of course my favourite...

Monday, March 03, 2008

And the winner is...

Green.
All I can deduce from that is that all my readers are conservatives. Happy Green won with 75% of the votes, with Stereotypical African getting 25% and 1 person-really didn't care. Whats wrong with candy pink? its nauseating thats what.

Why have I suddenly felt the need to re-decorate my blog? hmm- be glad I wasn't in a house with a can of paint handy- in fact, if i remember correctly a certain apartment is still painted 2 shades of jungle green with a sky blue fridge and eggplant purple ' feature wall'... my interio decorating has never been subtle.

The header? Dr Seuss- a painting called 'Free Bird'. Google it to see the whole pic and tell me what you think. how does it make you feel? hehe I was it in a Dr Theodore Seuss exhebition and absolutely loved it- what a metaphore! Feel free to buy me the original any time :)

Saturday, March 01, 2008

Doing life

I visited Swa-'s family village yesterday- and decided to photograph for you a fairly typical scene on the major highway (it has 2 lanes of bitumen- its a highway :) between Mangochi and the Mozambique border. I hope this gives more perspective to my previous post :-z

When we got to the village we heard that her cousin was sick, so we walked through the village to where the patient was being cared for at her fathers house. We paused to greet every person we passed, and for each an explanation of relation was given; 'this is my sisters daughters husband', 'this is my fathers brothers wife', 'this my fathers other wife's sister', 'this is my other sisters daughter', 'this is my husbands relative' (too hard basket :).

We entered the large, half built brick house, greeted everyone in the dark corridor and were seated at the door of the patients room. He was probably early 30's, stretched out on his back, skin and bone, every breath an effort. 'He has sores on his legs' Swa- explained helpfully. We sat in the dim, resigned silence of the house. This man was going to die.

After afew minutes my 'western analytical' brain kicked in. 'Have they taken him to hospital- why isn't this man in hospital?' I asked. I knew he wouldn't have a bed there, but there might be something they could do- something they could give him more than orange cordial... Swa- spoke with her parents in hushed voices and finally answered 'they say they do not want the doctor to yell at them for bringing him now, and if he dies there it will be too difficult to bring his body back'. We took our leave and walked back to where her sisters were sitting, but she was troubled 'too many people are dying of strange sickness now' she said.

I enjoyed hanging out with Swa- her 4 sisters and their cloud of children. We sat and ate guavas and maize while the kids played or suckled and the sisters talked and laughed. It made me miss family and appreciate the strenght of this matrilineal culture. Here, the women usually stay. Men marry into the womans family and move to the womans village. In this village each daughter had a house within 30m of their mothers house. Their auntys were 100m away, creating a strong sense of community and belonging. It also creates a level of security whereby the women have support if their husband takes a second/third wife- or he is trouble and they send him packing...

The conversation turned serious again- back to their cousin. There were raised voices, frustration. Swa- explained. The man had been taken to the hospital a long time ago- for 2 months, but then they took him to his wifes house. His wife stayed elsewhere and didn't care for him so they brought him to her fathers house to die. She offered to take him to the hospital- we had a car here- but the family said 'no'. They were afraid of the hospitals way. If someone comes back too many times and is not getting better, then they give them an injection and they die. They reminded her that when their sister was in the hospital the nurse came to give an injection and everyone around said 'what is this? is she that sick?' and a few minutes later their sister was dead.

How can I process this?! Is the hospital proactively killing terminally ill patients-or is this belief a culmination of too many people being taken to the hospital too late? There is a strong belief here that the hospital is where you go to die- no wonder the doctor yells. My housemate who did 7 weeks of nursing at the hospital assures me nothing of the sort goes on. Its all coincidence and rumours.
Before we left I took some photos and captured some of the dynamics of these beautiful sisters. I felt honoured to be included. They said I had to come back to eat ugali and pumpkin with them as a proper welcome. I look forward to it.



I was woken by a phone call this morning. ‘Hello Lina- I just want to tell you that patient we visited- he is dead. Yes. I am going there now'.

Thursday, February 28, 2008

Random amazing fact heard on BBC news this morning:

Zimbabwe's official annual inflation rate is: 100 000%

Defrag

Yesterday was village day- where I chauffer and sit under mango trees with the women while they sing and talk and have meetings. I think I understood twice as much as last time – which was pretty encouraging. We had lunch (2.30pm) at Neptunes- my favourite Malawian restaurant (If you come visit, I’ll shout you a meal. Trust me its worth it!), caught up with some of my colleagues who where renovating some offices in that town, then headed home in good spirits.

Back to Mangochi we got a phone call saying one of those colleagues had been in an accident and a child had been hurt.
Troopy vs child.
I felt like I’d been punched in the stomach. News filtered through in various phone calls. My colleague was ok. He was with the police giving a statement (uh oh-its 3yrs for theft here). Others were bringing the little girl down to the hospital in Mangochi – could my housemate (a nurse) meet them there? ‘What use would I be at the hospital?’ she asked in dismay- ‘An advocate for a little girl that needs it’ I answered. I hadn’t prayed so fervently for a long time.

My colleague had been driving on a straight bitumen road. He saw the little girl step on to the road and he hit the breaks. She kept running. He swerved hard. Thump. She regained consciousness on the way to the hospital. She was fading in and out from concussion but the prognosis was good. No broken bones. Pupils dilating evenly. Superficial grazes. They kept her in for observation overnight- but there were no beds so she spent the night on the hospital floor. This morning she had been moved into a bed – sharing it with a 4yr old in traction (plastered leg, string tied around the ankle, attached to a brick dropped off the edge of the bed). The hospital is SO under resourced, under staffed and over crowded!

Meanwhile my colleague gave his statement and was cleared of any fault. Praise God. It could have been so much worse in so many ways.

We’ve all had a scare. It could have been any one of us. I know I have complained about the driving conditions here before- but no matter how careful you are, it really is just a matter of time before you hit something/someone. Driving into a villages with clouds of kids around. On the open road; goats, cows, people, bicycles and broken down trucks can greet you anywhere and on any corner. I’ve swerved a drunk guy staggering out onto the road from behind a truck, had a woman stop in front of the car and put her hand on the bonnet, breaked hard to avoid a bicycle carrying mum, dad and baby on a corner with a truck carrying 50 odd people coming the other way- its nuts. Please keep our safety in your prayers.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

Lake Malawi

that pink was making me nauseus (sp?) ... so back to green :)

How was today? I think I need to defrag before telling www. So, back to the weekend...did I mention how lovely the resort was?! I swam- in a swimming pool (no bilhazia) there were deck chairs... there was a resteraunt, palm trees, stunning lake views and those cute little love seats all along the lake shore. The first night a huge thunderstorm hit about 1.30 am and finally moved out of 'keeping me awake' range at about 3.30 am...so not much sleep, but amazing to see the lake in storm.

Saturday night we played a few games of pool. It was so lovely to feel 'normal' for an hour- even if there were cinyago (freaky masked dancers) providing the evenings entertainment 20 m away. I think I just have to accept that there are some things about this country/culture that I will never understand or appreciate...ie cinyago. Not the best pics I know, but it was night- and you get the idea :)

Tuesday, February 26, 2008

eep!

the time has come...for me to do my own introduction in the village today. And of course, my language helpers child is still sick...so its up to me.
Lina lyangu 'Lina'. (My name is rina- remember- the letter 'r' doesnt exist in this language)Ngutocela ku Ostreyala. (I come from Australia)
Nayice ku Malawi myesi jitatu jipitejo. (I arrived in Malawi 3 months ago)
Ngutama ku Mangoci ku ce Kalonga. (I live in Mangochi in the village of Kalonga)
Ngulijiganya Ciyawo ligongo tinji kamula masengo ni Total Life Care. (I am learning Ciyawo because I will be working for Total Life Care)
Sikomo kwejinji ligongo apecele. (thank you very much for your welcome)
yes, it is the longest thing Ive ever said in Yawo- but the cool thing is- with my language learning method- i actually know how/why to say each bit (ie its not wrote learned). wish me luck- in language and on the roads. hehe

Monday, February 25, 2008

Relaxed...

Time: 8.27pm

Weather: muggy. Its been trying to rain. No luck yet.

Wearing: 'girly girl' t-shirt, long brown skirt

Listening to: the Shins- 'oh Inverted World'

Mood: weary but positive

Days highlights: waking up with a view of lake Malawi. Having really good, constructive time with the team.

Days lowlights: the resorts breakfast buffet. No donuts today! Pancakes (YAY) but only fluoro pink jam to put on them?! aah! I really miss breakfasts in Aussie cafes. Arriving back in Mangochi to discover my new garden has been partly hijacked to propogate shrub cuttings. dig your own dirt!!

I can't believe: There are 4 new comments on my blog!! what is happening? there are people out there?! i thought I was writing to dear www...


I think we all had a great weekend away from Mangochi. Didn't realise how much i needed the break 'til I got there. I think I'll end the 'retreat' by having a bath and going to bed early.

I'll tell you more about it tomorrow. Until then, here's a little taste...

Wednesday, February 20, 2008

3 points from today that Won't change your life

Today I learned that the President of Malawi is the father-in-law of Dictator Mugabe of Zimbabwe (fairly sure thats not his official title. oh well). Ahah light bulb moment! -this is why people are queuing for days at Ardmark (govt bulk food supplier- mainly maize).
Don't see the connection?
Well, apparently our President sold all of Malawis stockpiled maize to Zimbabwe to feed Mugabe's hungry people- leaving Malawi with lots of hungry people. this is called 'solidarity' - or something.

Today, in the village, I actually understood a lot (ie 7%?!) of what what was being said. Certainly better than nothing, however Im feeling increasingly frustrated with how slow a process language learning is. 6 weeks and I can still barely say anything!!!! I know ... patience ... cut myself some slack ... etc its just really annoying for someone like me who likes to talk! I really want to meet new people- connect... Its been almost 3 months since I left Australia and Im starting to feel the 'isolation' factor a little more acutely now. Im really missing being able to talk to my friends... catch up for a latte/beer... just hang out...

Today I achieved a personal best in Barbie (the Rav4) - 12 people!! yessirree- 3 in the front, 6 in the backseat and 3 in the boot. Im getting dangerously close to my colleagues record of 16 in the troopy- and my cars half the size-so the pressure is on!! hehe. yes, i did read my last blog and yes I am driving carefully- usually Im just used to shuttle people less than a km over bumpy dirt tracks to a meeting etc. my 4WD skills are improving!

Monday, February 18, 2008

What the?! malawi news

Cultural differences really do come in all shapes and sizes. Like yesterday- I was absolutely blown away...reading the newspaper.

Front page story:

Dedza First grade Magistrate Court last Friday ordered (the prosecuted), a driver who caused the death of 26 people to pay a fine of K700, 000 ($5650) within 14 days or serve a three years imprisonment in default. When passing judgement , the Magistrate considered leniency as (the prosecuted) was young and a first offender...

The court heard that the accident happened when a Toyota truck driven by (the prosecuted) with 62 passengers on board overturned three times soon after crossing the Linthipe III Bridge, killing 26 people in the process and leaving others seriously injured.

"the accident occurred due to over speeding and the driver lost control of the vehicle as he was allegedly drunk."...

As of yesterday (the prosecuted) had not paid the fine, part of which would be given to the bereaved families as compensation while the remainder would go to the government. "He has not yet paid the fine but if he does then we will set him free. The court has ordered that if the fine is paid then each family would get K25,000 ($200) in compensation..."


What the??!! (on so many levels!!)

while Im at it- check out what I found in the Advertisement/public notices section! I wonder what the poor guy did to deserve such a public sledging?!

Sunday, February 17, 2008

Check it out....



After a day queuing at the MRA in Blantyre (see blog from Dec), 2 months wait and 5 visits by my good mate to the MRA during Feb waiting for their system to be operational ... I have my Malawian drivers license!!!!


Not sure what was harder- getting the license or getting a photo of myself with the license that i liked :) I give up.

Friday, February 15, 2008

Famine Relief

Everything is green. The crops are standing tall, but the people are hungry. Harvest is still a month or two away- although there is some green maize being harvested and sold now. How do we respond?
The bad news is that in rural Malawi the 'hungry season' is an annual event- as regular as Christmas. The good news is that this year it has only hit proper in late January and will probably run through to mid March- as opposed to previous years where several bad seasons in a row have meant the 'hungry' started in August and continued through to April the following year. 9 months is a long time to ration maize porridge and scavenge for every meal. Can you imagine?
The worst hit are those who can't farm and are dependant on their relatives for thier survival. No welfare system here. A person's social network is their insurance, welfare and superannuation all entrusted to family ties and reciprocal giving relationsips carefully built over a lifetime.
So how do we 'outsiders'respond? How are decisions of how much to whom made?
A proposal was put forward at our team meeting yesterday- developed based on reports from the 120 villages we work in, in consultation with the major chiefs.
The development arguments against providing aid in the form of food handouts include:
-it sets a precedent and expectation for the future;
-its a bandaid not a long term solution; and
-a well developed system has to be in place to ensure it actually gets to those most in need- the elderly, the sick, the orphaned and child headed households.

Arguments in favour of providing the aid include:
-it is plain wrong to sit and watch people suffering and not respond with compassion when we have access to (comparatively) such enormous resources;
-the team is responding to requests based on years of relationship with these villages rather than applying a prepacked 'solution';
-as our work now forms a regular part of the village life we have been factored in to the kinship obligations. there is an element of expectation that if we can help, we will. even a small effort is appreciated and reinforces our solidarity in their hardship;
-the food will be distributed to where it is most needed through these relationship'; and
-the amount- based on our available resources and an understanding of the extent of the acute problem (reported by chiefs) is small. enough to tide people over, not enough to create dependance.

I had never actually though through HOW you would decide how much to give and where. relationship, budget, extent of problem, our capability. Our efforts will target the 120 villages that we work in and supply enough maize to supplement the rations of those most vulnerable for a week or two closer to harvest. We will source and purchase the maize, deliver it to the villages and the chiefs will record its distribution and ensure it is getting to where it is most needed.
As a new comer, I would like to give more- I guess partly to salve my conscience and make me feel good that Im 'helping'. But i can also see that short term solutions are exactly that- and the long term work of TLC in providing farming training and low cost inputs - although harder to measure the outcomes, is contributing to a long term, grass roots solution. I think the decreasing length of the 'hungry' is proof that real progress is being made.

Change

I just gave into peer group pressure and signed into facebook. It was fun looking up old and not-so-old friends- but it's struck me how much I've changed in just 3 short months in Africa...not that I was exactly 'mainsteam' to start with!! The paths we take mould us- and I guess if we take the path alone- then growing apart from loved ones is inevitable.
I don't want to lose connection though. I don't want my experiences to be such a world away that no one can relate- I've been there and that sucks. I set this blog up to keep in touch- to share whats going on in my life...but maybe it's reinforcing the chasm-of what our journeys currently DON'T have in common...and won't for a long while yet.
I dunno
Well- its the weekend (yay!). What are your plans?
see- this is an example of what I mean. you probably have plans- socialising, renovating, family stuff, beach, weekly shopping...aussie stuff. I might sleep in, defrost some bread I made last week and fry and egg & pretend its a BLT :) If the internet is on I'll respond to emails- if its not-I'll probaly finalise my word list (SQUARE!!), and in the afternoon expand my neighbours veggie patch- simply cos there is not much else to do and Im not in the mood to drive 30 min over potholes to the lake. anyways- digging is good exercise :-z
g'nite
ooh- new post label 'rambling'-cool :) Swa- said today- 'I wish I could say that like you do' 'Say what?' I asked- 'col!' she replied with a cheeky grin. the language lessons are going both ways

Thursday, February 14, 2008

We must not cease from exploration and the end of all our exploring will be to arrive where we began and to know the place for the first time.
TS Eliot

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

looks like vomit- but tastes great


I know how much you've been enjoying cooking the greens, eggs and ugali recipes that I posted in ' A foreigners guide to Malawian cooking', so I thought I'd continue my 'foodie' blogging with a second installment- and with such a title- how could you resist giving this dish a go at your next dinner party?
I can see it now- everyone relaxing and chatting with their glass of red, enjoying the predinner cheese and crackers...and you walk out proudly with a glass bowl of - lets call it 'peanut relish' -or maye 'peanut soup' (pictured left).
I first had it last week out in a village when a chief invited us for a meal. It was so tasty I asked Swa- if she could show me how to cook it- so today we cooked up a feast. I think it is now officially one of my favourite foods :)

Peanut Relish
1 onion
2 tomatoes
300-400grams of raw peanuts
salt (several teaspoons- to taste)
water




Method:

pound the peanuts into a flour using the method pictured. Also pictured are my fpersistent yet somewhat futile attempts. For us weaklings the alternative is to use a food processor. Finely dice the onion and tomato. Bring half a medium pot of water to the boil and simmer onion and tomato for a few minutes. Pour some liquid from the pot into the bowl of peanut flour and stir to make a thick paste- then add the taste to the pot while stirring. Add several teaspoons of salt. Simmer for 20 min- taste and add salt as required. Simmer down/or add water to form a thick soup consistency. Pour over hot rice and enjoy.




Another slightly odd, but really tasty recipe I've picked up here is banana tomato curry.

Banana Tomato Curry

A few bananas
a few tomatoes
1 tspn curry powder

Method
Slice 2-3 bananas into rings and caramelise (low heat) in a lightly oiled frypan.
Add 1 tsp of curry powder (we use hot Madrasa- hold your breath!) add diced tomato (5?) and simmer gently with minimal stirring until cooked. Add salt to taste - but personally i dint think it needs it. Serve with rice or ugali or whatever takes your fancy.

What I love about the cooking in this part of the world is that the recipes are uncluttered. They are simple, incredibly delicious and feel so..wholesome to eat. Even if you're not up to the peanut wonder- give the greens or the banana curry a go this week and enjoy the flavour of each individual ingredient.

Tuesday, February 12, 2008

Wisdom Wednesday

Confidence is the feeling you have before you understand the situation.
:)

Monday, February 11, 2008

A Monday in the life of me

My alarm went off, as usual at 6am. I rolled over. grabbed my bible and spent the next while reading, contemplating and praying. Got up, had a quick shower and started making my porridge- 7am. Took my vitamins (good girl!) and grabbed a big thick 'development' book to engross me over brekky. Didn't work- my housemate was heading out to 2 villages today so we chatted about the usual- the condition of the roads, the status of the dreaded bridge that Im convinced is going to finally collapse when Im on it, the health promotion presentation she has prepared, when she'll be home, dinner ideas etc.
She mentioned-as she walked out the door- that a BBC radio report said that Hose Ramos Hortes was shot in the stomach and Roneido shot dead. I suddenly felt sick. I have a soft spot for Timor Leste- and sometimes I really wish they'd get a break- or give themselves a break...or something. what next- gain freedom only to descend into civil war?
I called Mum and dad to tell them and while i was gasbagging-Mama P- our part time cleaner arrived. I greeted her and rattled off what needed to be done- with my mum exclaiming in my ear that 'you're speaking Yawo!' hehe- so I was! all the hard work must be doing something!
I put a cup of kidney beans in water to soak for dinner and then did some stretches while listening to recorded homework sentances from last week and yesterday. I got a bit behind last week- but Im organised for this week.
Swa- arrived promptly at 9am and we sat on the back verandah for the lesson. Reviewing old vocab with word games requiring sentance construction. Trying really hard to say lesson instructions in ciyawo instead of English. Discussing and collecting new vocab of job roles and places around town. I told her about Timor and she said she was worried about the Malawi elections in 2009. Apparently the current president is good- but the old president- who's friends with the lovely General Gadafi of Libya is quite determined to get back into power. I'll be here for those elections. great. By then the 2 hrs was up, so she recorded all my new vocab- with example sentances and since I had to go out- I offered to drop her home in the car.
First we picked up her daughter from day care and I realised that thanks to working for me- she has to put her 18 month old daughter in day care- then after our lesson walk approx 1 km to pick her up- then approx 2.5 km home-in the middle of the day with her daughter strapped to her back. I pay travel money- but she prefers to save it for other living costs. I had another 'Im in Africa' moment as I drove to the post office and stopped to buy some mosquito coils- with her breast feeding in the front seat. Seat belts? baby capsules? nope- this is Africa. After dropping her home I heated up some leftovers for lunch and had a nap. The internet was still down from yesterday morning so no exciting emails to read.
Woke up, reviewed the list of words collected in the morning lesson - then headed off to a colleagues house for my fortnightly 'mentoring session'. Its great to chat freely with someone whos been here longer (9yrs longer!)and understands. We talked alot about money- how to deal with being asked all the time, what to do with employees who have no concept of financial management and responding with compassion and some understanding of the situation- rather than out western black and white view of money. Basically she said I have to decide what constitutes a crisis worthy of a pay advance, loan or gift and help where my conscience tells me too- without being a walking talking ATM or allowing them to get into a debt trap with me. Much easier in theory than practise!
I arrived home by 3.30 ready for my afternoon grammar lesson- but Es- showed up after 4- as usual. 'I hope I have malaria!' she exclaimed as she greeted me. She had been to the hospital to tell them she felt cold sitting in the sun and they had given her anti-malarials. Lucky its the beginning of the month- otherwise she'd be getting panadol. we looked at lost of examples from the Ju-Wa noun classwhere the verb following a singular noun is prefixed by 'wa' but prefixed by 'ju' or 'ji' if the noun is plural. we got (deliberatley) sidetracked onto pronunciation- partly cos I couldn't take any more in and partly because both 'ju' and 'wa' aren't natural sounds for the Australian tongue- they're more like 'djya' and 'lwa' (big sigh).
She left after 5.30 and I got onto making dinner- that ended up being a bland beans and rice recipe that I won't be repeating. We had 2 surprise extras for dinner- one team mate who just got back form Blantyre, and a friend who dropped by borrow some DVD's. A nice surpise. After dinner I proof read an article my housemate is writing for an Australian publication about her work here and offered some suggestions for the conclusion. She is facing poverty personified. Villages with really bad diarreah (sp?) from a contaminated water source- but no alternative water sources and very little firewood resources for boiling water. They know the recipe for rehydration fluid: clean water, sugar and salt- but they don't have clean water and they can't afford sugar. 1 out of 3 is terrible. She also had a daddylonglegs above her toilet so i was called in for a 'relocation operation' :)
well, now its late and the internet is obviously back on - yay! so please email me or leave me a message. Im really enjoying life here- but sparkels from the outside world really do light up my day!
g'nite

Saturday, February 09, 2008

Yawo-ised English

Yes- another blog on language learning...because thats what Im doing with most of my time these days!
Malawi's colonial past is imprinted all over the Yawo language. Their words for the days of the week are a classic example. The yawo culture is aurel and a 'traditional' person here works in their garden every day, spending Friday afternoon at the Mosque- and yet their days are named as follows:
Monday- Lyakulemba (day of writing)
Tuesday- Lyawili (second day)
Wednesday - Lyatatu (third day)
Thursday - Lyancheche (fourth day)
Friday - Lyansano (you guessed it- fifith day!)
Saturday - Lyakuweluka (day of rest)
Sunday - Lyanlungu (day of God)

so, not only influenced by a culture that counts- but also a foreign culture that worships God on Sunday, rests Saturday and starts 'writing' (work) on Monday! makes sense to me- but im not sure what it means to them

the yawo spelling takes a bit of getting used to- some letters they just dont have, and they never have 2 vowels next to each other. They dont seem to like putting consonants together too often either- and when they do its in combo's like 'mj', 'mb', 'nj' and 'ng' which are fun to pronounce smoothly in a sentance. Also, every word has to end with a vowel and 'c' is always pronounced halfway between 'ch' and 'sh'... Here are a few more 'amusing' yawo edits to the english language:

trousers: tawalusa
town: tawuni
city: tawuni jekulungwa (big)
shirt: cati
hose: payipi
car: motokala
radio: wayilasi
keys: makisi (ma means plural)
and...if you didnt pick it up in the the picture above (sorry- taken from a car window, so couldnt move the sun :) )- that is a grocery store (golosale) and local tearoom (tiyilumu). gotta love it

Tuesday, February 05, 2008

Money Money Money

If there is an economist out there- please shed some light on this for me...
It can be confusing working in another currency. i've finally figured out the exchange rate: 124MK (kwacha) is an Aussie dollar- so I just knock 2 zeros off any price and aim for 3/4ths of whats left to figure out if something is expensive or not (try doing THAT with every item in the supermarket!! luckily we only get to a supermarket once every few months!).

In this way I've figured out that the prices of stuff in the supermarket is pretty much the same dollar value as Australia (except for carrots and broccoli which can be up to $30/kg- which you can accidentally buy if you don't do the mental gymnastics correctly hehe).

So anyways, what I don't get is how people survive. the average monthly income for an unskilled labourer is 8000MK ($64), or about 12000MK ($97) for a university educated job ie teacher. These are the lucky ones- unemployment is huge. Most people don't have a salary- but do whatever work they can find.

This didn't bother me until today. Today I filled my car up with 40 litres of petrol- which cost me 8000MK (petrol is $1.61/L), and today my language helper asked for an advance of 2000MK so she could fed her family for the week cos her husband spent Januarys pay without consulting her (thats another whole cultural insight story on its own!)...but it made me realise that a tank of fuel is a months wages and how the heck do you feed a family of 5, 3 meals a day for a week (+ extras that conveniently visit at dinner time during the hungry season) with $16?

You're probably thinking- 'well everything is much cheaper in the market place'- which, granted, it is- but let me remind you that theres no gas or water connected to most houses here- in town you have to buy charcoal to cook with and 4 large buckets of water cost about a dollar. In the markets, tomatoes are 20c each, beans are about $4 a kilo, a fish is about $2.50, and I can guarantee you she'll have no stocked pantry to fall back on. Living here is hand to mouth- partly because people have nothing to start with, and partly because needy relatives tend to come and help themselves to any excess- whether that be sheets and curtains or maize.

How can an economy function paying the large majority of its population not enough to live on? Granted- a large proprtion of the population rely more on the produce of their maize crops than their monetary income... but shouldn't the minimum wage be aligned to the cost of living regardless? How do you get this situation?!...and while we're at it- how the heck do you get Zimbabwe's situation where the country's Reserve Bank has officially revealed inflation (a gross underestimate) in excess of 24,000% (Australias is about 3%)??!!. A friend of mine passed through Zim on a monday, and when he came back through on the Friday his currency was useless. He didn't dare stop for more than a few minutes and travelled in convoy with trucks for protection. Its nuts. Right now Im wishing I did political science or something at uni so i'd have half a chance of wrapping my head around how some of the African nations function. Meawhile, ive decided that during March (when my housemate is away on holiday) Im going to takne on the challenge of feeding 1, 3 meals a day, for 7 days on $16. I know- im soft. to be legit I should divide it by 5 and try and live off $3.20- but I don't think I could do that. I'll 'pay'for my water and carry it in from the tap in the garden to compensate :) Stay posted for an adventure in March :)
g'nite