Thursday, December 18, 2008
touch down
It was really weird landing though- there was desert tinged in green from the recent rains on one side and mountains on the other. No sign of inhabitants or houses let alone a capital city and the next thing we're landing and all around was green grass and stunted trees. It felt eerily like coming into Albany airport and i started wondering if i was in the right place- what on earth is this country going to be like if they put their international flights down in the middle of nowhere! Not a single house or sign of infrastructure...except for a great big international airport terminal and a couple of south african Airline planes sitting incongruosly on the tarmac. I stepped out of the cold plane into the sunny warm breeze. From the ground level the horizon was nothing but a mirage shimmer. the sky was so-big.... i grinned from ear to ear. yup- im in the right place
Sunday, December 14, 2008
Friday, December 12, 2008
Mozambique is cool...
The language course has been good too. Very technical - with heaps of unavoidable grammar jargon, but great value. After 5 months of daily language lessons and ongoing weekly ones and already operating in the language at a very crude level, its exciting to finally have so much of it explained. did you know there are about 140 ways of saying 'this, that, these and those'? Only one word for love/like though :)
Bread... Moz has great bread, which my stomach hasn't really appreciated, but my taste buds have. Salad sandwiches for lunch! what a treat.
So, the vibe...is a lot more relaxed and casual than mangochi. Not quite as traditional dress wise (ie I saw a mini skirt and almost went into shock the other day!) plus alot more people seem to speak Portuguese here than English in Mangochi. Better education system?! People are really friendly. I got bewildered at the ATM the other day trying to convert the meticals to USD to AUD to figure out how much to withdraw and when the session timed out, 6 people crammed into the booth with me to help! hehe
well my computer time is up so I'll have to tell you all about border crossings and how stunningly beautiful it is here another time...
bye!
Saturday, December 06, 2008
Holidays Reds (opposite of blues?!)
Next week I'll be in Mozambique doing an intensive language course, then Im off to Namibia for a 2 week camping adventure tour, then a week in Joburg doing boring stuff, then... catch up with my folks in Lilongwe adn be back 'hone around the 10th of january. See you then? watch this space for Namibia pics :)
Catch Up
The rain also brings the bugs. One day as i was driving to the farm, I noticed groups of kids clutching a cup in one hand and twig in the other squatting by the sides of the road collecting something. The car was kicking up little clouds of something that looked like chaff. Curiosity finally got the better of me adn I pulled over to see what all the fuss was about. The white clouds were piles of insect wings adn the kids were collecting.... flying ants.
Unfortunately we haven't had great follow up rains, so the crops are just popping up and everyone is holding their breath to see what happens next. Its been a really late season. Thankfully the farm gets more rain up on the plateau than down here in town. We get heaps of thunder and lightning along the lake shore- even taking out our internet- but it never amounts to much.
Friday, November 07, 2008
because is A good project
Wednesday, November 05, 2008
Snapshot US elections
I stopped. 'Obama! Yes we can!' I replied with a raised fist and a teasing grin. The market fish sellers cheered and the mango seller grinned and launched into a monologue about Obama and America. My language hasn't got to politics yet. After registering my blank expression he returned to business 'Mango ten kwacha ten kwacha'.
I love cross cultural connection, however brief -but sometimes it is on the most random topics!Some events, for better or worse, have massive ramifications. All the way to Mangochi markets? i wonder.
time will tell.
Monday, November 03, 2008
Snapshot
The farm managers brother died last night. bad headache at 6pm, dead by 10pm, buried by 10am. There is no soft focus lens on life here. its raw. it hurts. Three days of mourning, then back to farm work on Thursday. Life goes on. it has to.
Sunday, November 02, 2008
Conquering the blues...
Friday, October 31, 2008
holiday blues
I think the worst thing about being single and living away from 'home' is holidays and weekends...as in- what do you do with them?
I relished the solitude of weekends for the first 6 months...but now Im just bored.
Then I remembered that I have all these holidays to use and started thinking 'great- where'll I go?' only to realise that the excitement of 'travelling through Africa' has worn off somewhat now that I live here... and if Im bored with weekends- whats my headspace going to be after 3 weeks solo?!
The only place that really interests me is Ille de Mozambique which is 2.5 days away by public minivans and train (and they speak Portuguese not English which sucks when you're lost) OR 1.5 days drive on remote, civil war torn roads...again- neither of which look appealing if you're going solo.
POOR ME!!!!
There endeth my whinge. thank you for reading.
There is a storm brewing. It rained at the farm but hasn't rained down here yet. thunder. cool :)
Im going to go back to reading my 'Lonely Planet' guide for inspiration. wish me luck.
Wednesday, October 29, 2008
Rain!
But all of todays events paled into insignificance when it started to RAIN.
yup, huge drops falling from the sky, crashing into the parched earth causing mini craters and puffs of dust like miniature red waves...it looked as though the ground was moving.
The children...half naked, running and dancing along the roadside, muddy rivulets streaming down their pot bellies, faces tilted and arms outstretched to the skies in celebration.
The wet season is coming...
Tuesday, October 28, 2008
Snapshot
eh- windscreens? who needs em!
Sunday, October 26, 2008
The RAC
Well, with african rasta blasting out across the landscape, the kids flocked to the car to dance and perform to their reflections in the paint work, while the mothers paused to watch and smile. The young men even heartily joined in singing - busting some moves with their hoes (the other kind)
It was one of those perfect moments really, where everyone is smiling and life is good.
Eventually the music stopped- which didn't surprise the whitey cos her MP3 player was low on battery. She explained with a smile that the battery was flat and continued measuring out contour marker ridges. Little did she know the truth of her words.
An hour later the 6 workers who jovially piled into the car to catch a lift home were sadly disappointed. After working 6am-11am, they found themselves pushing a car uphill along a bike track in the heat of the day. We tried roll starting it 5 times and eventually decided to push it the km back to the gravel road. 15 kids joined in for the fun.
The whitey was frustrated. It was Sunday. She was 45 min drive from help. The flat battery was her own fault. She called her dad :) her dad gave great advice but unfortunately was about 12 hours drive away, so the young men from the local village wandered out to show off their manly car fixing abilities. It was the village spectacle. At one stage a guy sat in the drivers seat pumpinng the clutch saying we needed to get fuel through the lines. The same guy wanted to take all the spark plugs off. Thankfully we didn't have the right tools.
Then a battery appeared from somewhere and they connected the terminals using a knife, a pair of plyers, a piece off the jack and a scrap piece of metal. That managed to get enough power to get the starter motor ticking, so they went off in search of wire and returned with some copper wire from a radio. Two hours after the problem was first discovered it was collectively decided that it was time to start pushing again. This time the bonnet was open with the new battery perched on top of the engine. This time a guy ran along side holding the wires to the terminals. This time the car car roared to life. The village cheered. The kids wooped. The 'mechanics' asked for money.
Saturday, October 25, 2008
Life
Friday, October 17, 2008
twenty tonnes of chicken poo...
thats right- chicken poo. more precisely finding someone who can supply me with twenty tonnes of it! "but i don't have any boys to spare- you'll have to bring your own, and they'll need gumboots. That pit is pretty deep" ... after a slight cringe I was stoked. Now I just gotta organise the finances and the truck and the shovels and convince the MEN to pick it up- or maybe next year :)
Other than that, this week has been pretty frustrating. Feeling unwell Monday, trip to the doctor Tuesday and an overnight in Blantyre due to not feeling well enough to take on the 2.5hr drive home solo. Wednesday...got home in the morning and spent the afternoon sleeping. Thursday went out to the farm, attended a staff meeting, sourced manure, got home and slept 2.5 hrs heavily before dragging myself up to make dinner.
Today...we've agreed the antibiotics aren't working, my 'annoying health issue' seems to have become a throat infection of some description and im not up to driving. SO, someone will drive me to the doctors again tomorrow. yay. The good news is that this time the doctors visit will be combined with catching up with my mum who's in Lilongwe for the weekend (Yay!). bad news is that Lilongwe is 4hrs drive rather than 2.5hrs. oh well.
The farm...is progressing painfully slowly. The rains are coming SOON and there is so much to do! how to prioritise? As always, we'll do our best.
Monday, October 13, 2008
A visit to the doctor
its ok- it's not an emergency. im not dying- I'd just like a quick visit to the doctor to get a niggling health issue checked. Easy, right? call in the morning, make an appointment, show up, wait an hour, see the doctor, go home.
Not so Malawi.
Because I refuse to attend the local hospital (which services almost a million people and probably wouldn't look at me anyway cos I don't look sick) I have to get up at 5 am, leave for the nearest city at 5.30am (less people and animalian traffic on the road), drive for 2.5hrs, then I have 2 options- walk into emergency at one of the private hospitals, or take a ticket at the doctors and wait for my number to be called. See the doctor, then I can go home.
Unless...I'm given a prescription to fill, in which case I'll probably spendthe next few hours trying to locate a chemist that has the prescribed medicine in stock... and then do our grocery shopping and then drive 2.5 hrs home again. OR
Even worse- I might need tests- which means either way I'll end up in the emergency department of a private hospital and invariably stay the night whilst waiting for test results. Last time I went to the doctor I had to talk him out of sending me to South Africa for the day!
Sometimes life here conspires to be difficult, but thank God for access to health care I say
Sunday, October 05, 2008
Rallies, *amadan and Really hot weather
I hung around for a bit of the speeches which he delivered with great passion from the back of a ute (he's the one in the yellow shirt on the right), then wandered back to finish my cuppa.
The next day was the celebration day for the end of fasting, so I brought goat meat for my friends from the local butcher and headed out to celebrate with them. It was very different from my experience of this day in Indonesia several years ago- I guess mostly because of the incredible poverty here. In Indo the entire day before the celebration was spent cooking and preparing copious amounts of cakes and goodies. The actual day, after morning prayers, and in fact the following 3 days was spent gorging yourself on the cakes, entertaining visitors with the cakes...then visiting everyone in the town and eating their cakes too!
Everyone was excited about the celebration here too- but I couldn't see much evidence of food. I gave my gift to my friend and hung out most of the morning playing with the kids and drinking utobwa (fermented millet drink- a bit like a strawberry yogurt shake in consistency) then, after prayers, each house prepared their meal and shared it with the other families in that enclave of the village. First there was ugali and chicken, then ugali and fish, then ugali and goat stew, then rice and beans (which I suspect they brought out just for me cos theydidn't think I'd eaten enough ugali- but a) it doesn't take much ugali to fill me up b) even with 3 courses- 1 plate of each doesn't go far between so many people and c) I eat meat more than once a year-this was a special treat for them). It was a lovely communal feel all washing our hands in the same bowl and eating out of the communal dishs...I covered the whole experience in prayer that I wouldn't get sick and I didn't! :)
The market butchery( the butcher declined to be in the photo).
Eating together.
Well, it's now after dinner and this party animal is ready to hit the sack- so I'll leave you with my favourite photo of the week. :)
g'nite.
Tuesday, September 30, 2008
grubbiness
Saturday, September 13, 2008
Friday
A colleague came over for lunch (smelt the bread?! :) and it was a great few hours discussing and sharing how life here has impacted us so deeply. What will we do when we go back to Australia? We've changed and we won't fit our old lives any more. To be honest, the future looks lonely and uncertain. Neither of us regret coming here and being a part of this world for a short time- its a privilege. But when we consider the future we've both started to realise that the cost is possibly greater than we ever imagined. I suspect the benefit is going to be greater than we ever imagined too. The sheer scale of God's plans always amaze me and he's been good and faithful til now so I really have no reason to doubt his faithfulness in the future!
There is a song by Sara Groves called 'Painting pictures of Egypt' that I think captures the feeling well. The chorus says "I've been painting pictures of Egypt, leaving out what it lacked, cos the future feels so hard and I wanna go back, but the places that used to hold me cannot
hold the things I've learned- those roads were closed off to me while my back was turned...'
After that I had a 2 hour language lesson. Although my teacher was quite despondant the other day about how much vocab I've forgotten :( I would like to point out (in my defense) that I am now much better at using the vocab I DO have in an understandable sentence structure. I can also distinguish words and process them when different people are speaking now MUCH faster than before-so Im understanding alot more of waht is going on around me, even if I am slow to form sentences in response. Either way, whether Im doing better or not- we're both working harder at my language which a good outcome :)
After language I collected all the veggies in our veggie patch that were ready (about 20 tomatoes and 20 capsicums) and decided we really needed to eat a lot of capsicum for dinner! SO we had fish, steamed veggies and indianish stuffed capsicums. The recipe was so yummy I've put the link in for you. The only thing I did different was add a tiny bit of liquid to each capsicum after stuffing it so the masala mix didn't fall out.
http://fooddownunder.com/cgi-bin/recipe.cgi?r=248791
After dinner we watched one of my favourite movies- 'Japanese Story'. Normally it is the storyline that hits me the hardest, but I have to admit I felt terrbily homesick watching the scenery and felt a bit teary during the 'Perth International Airport' scene (!!!) remembering my own departure from those bleak gates. I lent it to a South African friend last week and I heard (via the rumour mill) that he loved it so much he edited out a few scenes and showed it to his village friends?! I wonder how it interacted with their world view? How would they interpret it? He's coming 'round for dinner tonight so I'll have to ask him how it went.